Saturday, April 28, 2012

Grease fill % and what it means for your riding

We thought we'd post some info on grease fill and how it effects a bearing.  Grease fill or commonly referred to grease fill % is how much grease is applied to the bearing.  100% would be a bearing completely stuffed full of grease, while 50% would be half as much.


The lower the grease fill % the easier the bearing will spin while not under any load.  The common thinking then is to use a very low %.  Some companies do this for one reason- to make you think their bearings are faster than they are.  They know the first thing you will do when you install your wheel bearings or BB is to spin the wheel or the crank and see how long it spins.  This is a great way to see how good the bearings are, right?  Not really.


A brand new bearing will spin mostly based on the amount of grease, the tightness of the seals and how heavy the spinning object is.  A heavy wheel/rim, tube and tire will spin longer than a lightweight wheel/rim, tube and tire.


Knowing this, most bearing companies apply a low fill % of grease and use light seals, since you will think the bearing is awesome because it spins so long.  But in reality, this is a bad practice.  You need enough grease to properly lube the bearing and help it's longevity.  You need proper seals to keep the bad stuff out (grit and water) and the good stuff in (the grease).


Plus, spinning a wheel or BB while unloaded (not being ridden) completely misses the point with how bearings work.  They work when loaded and the main reason our ceramic bearings are so well received is because of the quality ceramic balls that we use.  Our round balls spin easier than less round ceramic (lower grades) and even more less round steel balls.  A rounder ball will not produce as much heat like a lower quality ball, which means the rounder ball spins easier.  Matched with our races, the bearings spin like on a glass like surface.


We tend to use slightly heavier seals and a slightly higher grease fill %.  While it will take a little longer to break our bearings in, they do last longer and in the end, that is also why you upgrade to ceramic.  While we use a higher grease fill % than most other ceramic bearings, our grease is specially designed for our bearings.  It spreads easily while breaking in and isn't too tacky nor too watery.  It is ideal for ceramic bearings and can be applied more liberally without causing a complete slowdown in the turning of the bearing.


What happens when our bearings are going through the "break-in" process?


3 things:  First- as the bearings break in the grease gets spread around and pushed to the cage which reserves long-term continuous lubrication.  A thin oil film forms on the balls for lubrication.  The thin oil films will generate less drag on the balls.   Second, the seals will break in and loosen.  Third-  The ceramic balls continually polish the races making them slicker and faster with time.


Friday, April 27, 2012

Whoa! Where have we been?

We haven't updated this blog in.like.a.long.time...sorry!  Stay tuned for more updates!

Friday, June 12, 2009

New Website!

Our new website is up. The design is still in development, so what you see is temporary. But, the product database is functioning and orders are now being accepted!

www.f1ceramic.com

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

BB86 cups are in production!

For all you Scott and Giant riders out there, our new ceramic BB86 cups have passed testing and are now in production. They should be finished in 15 days and available for sale!

Tuesday, May 12, 2009

Why full ceramic should not be used on wheels

Recently there have been a few companies releasing full ceramic bearings for wheels. While this seems like a logical next step in ceramic bearings, they are a poor choice to put in your wheels. The reason is that the ceramic material used in the race is not resistant enough to fracture. In other words, impact. The most common ceramic material Silicon Nitride (Si3N4) (what we make our balls out of) is far too susceptible to fracture when used as a race.

To get around this many companies will use Zirconia (Zr02) for the races because it has a higher resistance to fracture. But for bicycling use, the fracture level is still too low. Many of the companies releasing these items are not cycling based, meaning they think full ceramic sounds like a good idea, but in reality their expensive bearings will break rather quickly when used as bicycle wheel bearings.

The best bet for wheels is still our F1 Ceramic Premium wheel bearings using a hybrid approach. You get all of the performance gains from other brands full ceramic but none of the worry!

Sunday, April 26, 2009

Summer Sale

We have some excess spring inventory left which we have placed on sale. These items are marked down $30-75 each. We need to move these to make room for our summer stock.

Plus as a blog reader, here is a coupon for an additional 10% off: blogreader

Take 10% off all orders over $100: enter code blogreader in the voucher box when checking out.

Coupon code must be presented at time of purchase and cannot be applied to previous purchases. Coupon cannot be combined with any other offer; does not include gift cards. Discount does not apply to shipping, handling or taxes. Offer is good via website only. Minimum order of $100 required.

Friday, April 24, 2009

Fast Friday Tip

Here is this week's tech tip.

Did you know that the front wheel on Mavic Ksyrium's often comes with the label applied the wrong way? This causes the wheel to be installed backwards and can lead to the loosening of the bearing tension. Want to check your wheel? The adjustment side of the hub should be the non drive side. There will be several small holes on the hub endcap for the adjustment tool to press into when adjusting the tension. These should be on the non drive side.